AESTHETICAL POST-TREATMENT PIGMENTARY CHANGES IN BLACK SKIN PEOPLE

Abstract

The demand for black skin facial aesthetic treatments (Phototypes IV, V, and VI on the Fitzpatrick Scale) has grown considerably in recent years. In counterpoint to this growth, the cosmetics and cosmetic procedures available in the market, in part, do not meet the specific needs of this type of skin. The black skin presents anatomical, physiological, and pathological characteristics, different from the white skin, which allow cosmetic treatments and cosmetic products to trigger pigmentary disorders. This way, the objective of this work was to present the main pigmentary alterations after facial aesthetic treatments in people with black skin. The methodology used in this research was a descriptive bibliographical review with a qualitative approach. In this context, information was sought on black skin, pigment disorders, aesthetic facial procedures, and cosmetic products. The results showed that dermal dyschromia’s origin in black skin, as in other skin types, are most often the consequence of an inflammatory response, but the higher phototypes are more predisposed to pigment alterations. Among these dyschromias, one may highlight melasma, hyperpigmentation, and post-inflammatory hypopigmentation. It was also observed that the treatments mentioned in this article (depigmenting agents, chemical peelings, microdermabrasion, and microagglutment) present the risk of causing pigmentary alterations in high phototypes, especially if this skin already presents some previous lesion. It is also worth noting that even with the development of new products and new technologies, the Aesthetics and Cosmetics market still needs to invest more in research and development of products aimed at this public, considering the particularities of this type of skin.